SOME KEY POINTS Sheep housing needs vary by climate, season of birth, and management preferences. Lambing percentages are usually highest when shed lambing is practiced. Space requirements are provided by the Midwest Plan Service. Good ventilation is an absolute must for sheep housing. Grazing sheep should have access to shade or shelter. Freshly shorn sheep may require temporary housing or shelter. There are pros and cons to raising sheep in complete confinement (zero grazing). Sheep housing needs vary by climate, season(s) of lambing, and management preferences of the shepherd. If lambing will occur during periods of inclement weather, more elaborate housing is usually required. If lambing will occur on pasture during periods of mild weather, simple shelters may be all that is needed. Lambing percentages are usually higher when and where shed lambing is practiced. Housed sheep have lower nutritional requirements, whereas sheep kept outside have fewer respiratory problems. In addition, most operations need facilities where they can store feed, bedding, and equipment. Hay stored in a barn or shed will maintain its quality better than hay that is stored outside, even if the hay is covered. Equipment will last longer if it is housed under a roof. An area is needed to quarantine new animals and keep sick ones. Separate housing is often needed for rams. Barns (and similar structures) are often built for the comfort and convenience of the shepherd. During cold or inclement weather, it is easier and more enjoyable to care for sheep that are housed. However, housing costs can add significantly to the investment costs of a sheep enterprise. Options There are many different types of housing that can be used for sheep. Traditional barns, pole buildings, and metal buildings are usually the most expensive, but they provide the best protection for the shepherd, sheep, feed, and equipment. A lower-cost alternative to traditional housing is a greenhouse-type structure called a "hoop house." A hoop house has an arched metal frame that is covered with a heavy fabric. Fabrics last for approximately 8 to 10 years. Sheep facilities do not need to be built new. Old dairy, swine, and poultry barns can be converted to housing for sheep. Many facilities can be remodeled to accommodate sheep raising. Many universities and provincial governments have building plans for sheep facilities. Some universities have agricultural engineers that can help with building layout and design. Site location Facilities should be located on elevated, well-drained sites. When designing a three-sided shelter, the open side should face south away from the prevailing wind. The barn should be easily accessible for deliveries and manure handling. The site should allow for installation of water and electricity. Space requirements When confined to a building, a bred ewe requires 12 to 16 square feet of pen space. Lambing pens should be 16 to 25 square feet in size. In group housing, a ewe with her lambs needs 16 to 20 square feet. Feeder lambs need 8 to 10 square feet. Less space is required if sheep are raised on slatted floors or if they have access to an exercise area or pasture. Shearing before housing will allow stocking rates in the barn to be increased by up to 20percent. Recommended housing space (square feet) for sheep and lambs Source: Midwest Plan Service, Sheep Housing and Equipment Handbook, 1994. Ventilation Barns should not be heated or closed up. Good ventilation is an absolute must. Respiratory problems (e.g. pneumonia and bronchitis) often result from poor ventilation. If ammonia can be smelled in the barn, ventilation is likely inadequate. It is always a good idea to sit at the same level as the sheep to determine the air quality they are breathing. Ventilation can be accomplished by either natural or mechanical means, but usually naturally-ventilated cold housing is preferable for sheep. It is better to over-ventilate than under-ventilate. Sheep, including healthy baby lambs, are very cold tolerant. What they need is a dry, draft free place to lamb and bond with their lambs. Bedding Bedding provides warmth, insulation, and comfort to housed animals. Various materials can be used for bedding for sheep, depending upon cost and availability: straw, hay, dried corn stalks, corn cobs, peanut hulls, cottonseed hulls, oat hulls, sawdust, wood shavings, wood chips, pine shavings, sand, paper products, peat, hemp, and leaves. Each type of bedding has advantages and disadvantages. Straw is the traditional bedding for livestock. It comes from the stems of small grains: oats, wheat, rye or barley. Since straw has many uses other than livestock bedding sometimes it costs more than alfalfa hay. Sometimes low quality hay is a cheaper option than straw. Sawdust is not good bedding for wooled sheep because it gets in their fleeces, but works fine for hair sheep. Wood chips or peanut shells are less absorbent than other materials, but can be used as bedding. Corn stalks are a decent bedding material for sheep. Shredded paper (or newsprint) is more absorbent than straw, but is more difficult to handle and may look offensive when spread on fields. Sand has been used by dairy farms to reduce mastitis and improve cow comfort. No matter what material is used for bedding, it needs to be clean and dry. Livestock bedding alternatives *Absorption factor is weight of water held per unit of try material. Assumes initial moisture content of bedding is less than 10 percent. Source: Alternative Bedding Materials for Livestock, Ontario Ministry of Agriculture (2018). Keeping Sheep Outside Year-round Some producers keep their sheep outside year-round. It is more natural. Sheep kept outside benefit from better ventilation and more exercise. Their fleeces stay cleaner. Winter grazing can result in considerable feed savings. In many parts of the US, tall fescue is the best forage for stockpiled grazing during the winter. Sheep can graze through approximately 12 inches of snow. If the snow is not hard or crusted, the sheep can usually eat enough snow to meet their water requirements; otherwise they need to be watered at least once per day. Lactating ewes should have access to water at all times. It is common to temporarily house sheep after shearing and/or during lambing. Adult sheep can handle cold and wet weather rather well, but newborn lambs cannot. The combination of cold and wet can kill even a two week old lamb, if there is not sufficient shelter. Emergency shelter is needed for bad storms. Nutrition is the key to keeping sheep outside in the winter. If they have enough to eat, they will stay warm. Not having to clean the barn and spread manure on the fields is another major benefit to keeping sheep outside. Shelter and Shade There is disagreement as to whether sheep require shelter (or shade) while they are on summer pasture. In humid climates, it is advisable. Sheep will usually choose shelter if it is available to them. Protection from heat is probably more important than protection from rain, though hair sheep are more likely to seek shelter from rain than wooled sheep and less likely to seek shade during the heat of the day. In many cases, trees or a windbreak is all the shelter (or shade) that sheep need. In open fields without sufficient tree coverage, simple run-in sheds or shade structures can be constructed or purchased. Port-a-huts, calf hutches, Poly Domes, and carports are useful for small flocks. Movable structures are a good alternative. Even a hay wagon can make a suitable shelter on pasture. Total Confinement Sheep can adapt to a complete confinement system of production. Confinement enables a producer to raise sheep or increase flock size in situations where land is a limiting factor due to availability or cost. Confinement can vary from open, dry (dirt) lots to buildings with expanded metal floors and automated manure handling systems. Confinement requires intensive, year-round management. Because it will likely result in a higher cost of production, higher levels of performance are usually required. Accelerated lambing is common. Economical sources of feed are necessary. There are numerous advantages to raising sheep and/or lambs in total confinement, as it is possible to control more of the variables of production. Predator problems can be eliminated by keeping sheep in confinement. Internal parasite problems can be practically eliminated, as the vector for transmitting infective worm larvae is pasture. Coccidia oocysts, on the other hand, can be more numerous in confinement systems. While it is usually easier to control foot rot and foot scald in confinement, housed animals usually require more frequent hoof trimming. Slatted floors will help to keep hooves worn, but may caused some joint problems. Confinement lends itself well to automated feeding systems. It is common to fatten (feed) lambs in confinement. Less space is needed if expanded metal or mesh flooring is used. The use of rubber mats will improve comfort and insulation. In fragile environments, confinement can prevent overgrazing or other environmental impacts caused by poor grazing management. Zero grazing is common in many third world environments. Security is superior when animals are kept in small areas that can be more easily monitored. Table: Pros and cons of raising sheep in confinement Environment and welfare concerns are not listed as either a pro or con because they can be either, depending upon management.

SOME KEY POINTS With few exceptions, feed should always be fed in feeders (with ample space). Sheep must not be allowed to stand or defecate in their feeders. Feeders should be regularly cleaned and kept free from fecal matter and other debris. There are numerous designs for feeders, including many do-it-yourself options. Feeders are a necessity for almost all livestock enterprises. Feeding on the ground results in considerable feed wastage and can contribute to the spread of disease, including internal parasites and abortion. If sheep are able to stand in their feed or feeders, they may defecate and/or urinate in the feed. This will increase feed refusal and contribute to disease transmission. Feeders need to be raised off the ground and constructed in such a way to keep sheep and lambs out (as much as possible). Properly constructed feeders also help to minimize feed wastage. The only thing worse than buying expensive feed is watching animals waste it. There are various designs for grain feeders. V-shaped feeders are easier to clean than feeders with square bottoms. Rubber or metal pans are useful for hand feeding small numbers of animals. Feeders that can be hung on the side of the fence, then removed after the sheep/lambs have finished eating, are especially effective. Some producers have constructed fence line feeders from PVC pipe. Hay or baleage can be fed in bunks or racks or along a fence line. V-shaped racks with vertical or diagonal slats work best. Round hay bales should be fed in feeders with movable sides or an overhead rack. There should be enough feeder space for all sheep and/or lambs to eat at once. Ewes require approximately 16 linear inches of feeder space. Lambs require 12 inches of feeder space. Less feeder space is needed if animals are self-fed rations: 8 to 12 inches for ewes and 2 to 4 inches for lambs. Sometimes, round bales of hay are rolled out on the ground. This is okay on firm ground and when all of the hay is consumed in a timely manner. Silage or haylage is usually fed in bunk or fenceline feeders. Feeders should be cleaned daily to prevent sheep from eating spoiled feed. Bacteria can grown in spoiled feed, resulting in listeriosis ("circling disease"). Minerals can be incorporated into the ration or offered free choice. Sheep usually consume less minerals when they are in a block form. Commercial mineral feeders are available from farm supply stores and sheep equipment manufacturers. Mineral feeders can be made from tires, PVC pipe, and plastic garbage cans. If fed outside, a lid is needed to keep minerals dry. Building plans for mineral feeders may be available at many county extension offices. Recommended feeder space for sheep and lambs, inches per animal Source: Midwest Plan Service, Sheep Housing and Equipment Handbook, 1994.

SOME KEY POINTS Sheep usually drink anywhere from 1/2 gallon to 5 gallons of water per day. Water can be provided in buckets, troughs, tubs, stock tanks, or automatic waterers. In the summer water should be shaded; in the winter, it should be ice-free. Water resources should be kept clean and free from fecal matter and other debris. Water should be periodically tested for bacterial, heavy metals, and other impurities. Sheep may drink little water when their feedstuffs are high in moisture. Clean, fresh water is a daily necessity for sheep and lambs. Sheep will consume anywhere from ½ to 5 gallons of water per day, depending upon their physiological state, the content of water in their feed, and environmental conditions. Requirements increase greatly during late gestation and lactation. Water intake is positively correlated to feed intake. Table: Estimated water requirements for sheep and lambs Water can be free flowing or provided in buckets, troughs, tubs, stock tanks or automatic waterers. It goes without saying that water sources should be kept clean and free from hay, straw, and fecal matter. Smaller troughs are easier to drain and clean. Water will be more readily consumed during cold weather if the water is ice-free and during hot, humid weather if the water source is in the shade. Sheep prefer to drink still water as opposed to water from a moving stream. It is generally recommended that streams be fenced off and that livestock not be allowed to drink from natural water sources. Giving livestock access to stream bank areas may cause environmental problems, though sheep are more desirable for grazing riparian areas than larger livestock. Sometimes, sheep will seem to drink very little water. This is probably because they are consuming feeds or forages that are sufficiently high in moisture content. As the grass gets drier or their diet gets drier, they will consume more water. Table: Recommended watering space for sheep and lambs Source: Midwest Plan Service, Sheep Housing and Equipment Handbook, 1994.

SOME KEY POINTSFencing is one of the biggest capital expenditures on a sheep farm.Perimeter fencing is usually permanent and is the first line of defense against predators.Interior fences are used to divide fields into smaller sections (paddocks) for rotational grazing. They can be permanent, semi-permanent, or temporary.There are different fencing options for permanent and temporary fencing, with each having various pros and cons.Aside from land, fencing is usually the biggest capital expenditure on a sheep farm. though in some cases, existing fence can be modified for sheep-raising. Two types of fencing are required on sheep farms: perimeter and interior. Some temporary fences may be needed.Perimeter fencing is usually installed around the boundary of the property (or grazing area) and is the first line of defense against predators. It is intended to last for a long period of time and should be constructed of high quality materials. The most suitable perimeter fences for sheep are multi-strand, high-tensile, electric fences and woven wire fences with electric offset wires and barbed wires at the top and bottom of the fence.Interior fences (or cross fences) are used to subdivide fields into smaller areas (paddocks) for grazing. Interior fences may be constructed from permanent, semi-permanent, or temporary fencing materials. While an interior fence does not usually need to deter predators, it does need to be good enough to keep weaned lambs away from their dams and/or rams away from ewes. Temporary fencing can be used to enclosed areas for temporary grazing (e.g. a corn or wheat field). It may need to be predator-proof.Perimeter FencingHigh-tensile, electric High-tensile electric fences last for a long time, are relatively easy to construct, and cost less than other types of fencing. Whereas cattle can often be controlled with 1 or 2 strands of electric wire, sheep require multiple strands, not so much to keep them in, but to keep potential predators out.Five, six or seven strands of 12 ½ gauge high-tensile wire is common for sheep fences. The bottom wires of the fence are more closely spaced than the top wires. Wire spacings of approximately 6, 5, 5, 8 and 10 inches are typical. In areas where there is relatively even rainfall and some green vegetation most of the year, it is recommended that all wires be hot.Ground return wires are recommended where there is low rainfall, stony and dry soil conditions, or where the ground is frequently frozen or snow covered. Switches can be installed so that wires can be turned off if the situation warrants. For example, it is useful to put a switch on the wire closest to the ground, so that it can be turned off if there is too much vegetation on the fence line.High-tensile fences are made with smooth wire that is pulled to an initial tension of 250 pounds. They require strong corners and end braces to achieve adequate tension. The wire is held on fence posts with staples. These staples are driven at a slight angle off of vertical so the slash cut points steer the staple into different grains of the wood. The staples are not driven tight against the wire, but instead allow freedom for the wire to move during tensioning, temperature changes, or livestock pressure.GroundingPoor grounding is the leading cause of electric fence failures. An electric fence must be properly grounded so that the pulse can complete its circuit and give the animal an effective shock. It is important to follow manufacturer's instructions for grounding electric fences. A minimum of three ground rods should be used for each energizer. It is estimated that 80% of electric fences in the U.S. are improperly grounded. A voltmeter is an inexpensive tool that measures the charge the fence delivers and can be used to trouble shoot electric fence problems.The chargerThe charger (or energizer) is the "heart" of the electric fence system. It converts main or battery power into a high voltage pulse or "shock" as felt by the animal when it touches the fence. In the past, electric fence chargers shorted out easily. Today's chargers are low impedance, meaning they are designed to effectively shock though vegetation and other foreign materials touching the fence.A 4,000 volt charger is usually sufficient for sheep. The number of joules needed depends on the length of the fence, the number of electrified wires and the severity of conditions. A joule is the amount of energy released per pulse. As a general rule, 1 joule will power 6 miles of single fence wire; 4.5 joules is usually adequate for 20 to 50 acres. Lightning strikes can damage energizers. Surge protectors and lightening arrestors are recommended to minimize energizer damage.High tensile electric fencing requires periodic upkeep. Fence wires should be kept properly tensioned. Weeds and brush should be cleared from the fence line by spraying or mowing.It is important to note that an electric fence much more of a psychological barrier rather than a physical one. Sheep and lambs must be trained to respect electric fence. Once trained, they will usually respect the fence even if it is off for any reason.Woven Wire (American Wire, Page Wire)Woven wire is the traditional type of fencing for sheep. It consists of horizontal lines of smooth wire held apart by vertical wires called "stays." The distance or spacing between horizontal line wires may vary from as close as 1 1/2 inches at the bottom for small animals, to as wide as 9 inches at the top for large animals. In general, the spacing between wires gets wider as the fence gets taller. Stay wires should be spaced 6 inches apart for small animals and 12 inches for large animals.A four-foot high woven wire fence, with one to two strands of barbed or electric wire along the top of the fence makes an excellent perimeter fence for sheep. A strand of barbed wire along the bottom of the fence will serve as a "rust" wire and extend the life of the fence. An electric "offset" wire at shoulder height will keep sheep from poking their heads through the fence. Another offset wire, approximately 7 inches up from the ground will help to deter predators that try to go under fences.High tensile woven wire fences are more expensive but will not sag or stretch as readily as standard woven wire. They are more resistant to rust and are considerably lighter in weight. Less fence posts are needed with high tensile woven wire. The advantage to woven wire fences is their effectiveness as a visual barrier. Their biggest disadvantage is their cost.Mesh wire Mesh wire fences have smaller openings than woven wire fences. Two types of mesh wire are the diamond mesh, which uses two wires twisted together in a diamond formation with 2-inch x 4-inch openings, and the square knot mesh, which has single horizontal lines with the wire spaced 2 to 4 inches apart. Because they are more expensive than woven wire, they tend to be used for confinement fencing, such as corrals and barnyards.Barbed Wire Fences Barbed wire fences are generally not recommended for sheep because they may not effectively deter predators and they can cause injury to livestock. Sheep can get their wool snagged in the barbs. Barbed wires should not be charged due to their poor conductivity and safety for the animals.When barbed wire fences are used they should contain at least 5 to 6 wires, preferably 8 to 10 closely-spaced wires with several twisted vertical stays. The best use of barbed wire is to rejuvenate old fences or enhance woven wire fences. It is common to install 1 or 2 strands of barbed wire along the top of a woven wire fence and/or one wire along the bottom of the fence.Rail Fencing (wood or vinyl) Rail fencing will generally not contain sheep or repel predators unless electric wires are placed between the boards or the entire fence is covered with woven or mesh wire. Rail fences are expensive to build and maintain. On the other hand, permanent, wooden fences are often used for corrals and barnyards.Other Types of Fencing Fences made from hog wire or chain link, while effective are generally too expensive to enclose large parcels of land. They work well for corrals and barnyards and other high pressure areas.Rejuvenating Old Fences Old fences can last many more years by attaching offset brackets and an electrified wire on each side of the old fence. Single off-set wires should be set at two-thirds of the height of the animals to be controlled. The old fence can serve as the ground wire and will work well to complete the circuit and control the sheep. Table: Comparison of perimeter fencing types Fence height Fences can be built at different heights. Commercial fencing products come in different heights. Most predators climb, go through, or go under fences, as compared to over them.Fence Posts There are many types of fence posts. Fence post selection should be based on the specific fencing need. For example, treated wood posts are best for permanent boundary fences, while steel or fiberglass posts are suitable for temporary fences. Wood posts are highly variable in size and shape. Strength of wood posts increases with top diameter. Post strength is especially important for corner and gate posts, which should have a top diameter of at least 8 inches. Brace posts should be 5 inches or more in top diameter. Line posts can be as small as 2 1/2-inches in top diameter, although larger diameter posts make fences stronger and more durable. T-posts and landscape timbers can also be used for line posts.Steel posts offer a number of advantages. They are lighter in weight, fireproof, extremely durable, and relatively easy to drive. They also ground fence against lightning when in contact with moist soil. Fence posts must be long enough to accommodate fence height, depth of setting, and an additional 6 inches. One of the advantages of high tensile fencing is that it requires less fence posts.Most fences use a post spacing of 8 ft. whereas the line spacing on high tensile fences varies from 16 to 90 feet. Post spacing needs to be adjusted for topography, livestock pressure, post size, wire tension, and use of poly spacers, battens, or droppers.Wire Wire may be galvanized steel, aluminum, or aluminum clad steel. Several gauges and breaking strengths of wire within the different wire types are available. Steel wire is covered with zinc, commonly called galvanizing, to protect it from rusting. More zinc means more years of service before rusting starts.High tensile wire typically carries three times as much zinc coating as barbed or woven wire, which accounts for its long expected life. Aluminum wire is lighter, more conductive, and never rusts; however, the breaking strength of aluminum wire is only about one third that of steel wire. A combination of these two materials is also available as aluminum clad hi-tensile steel. This is a hi-tensile steel wire with aluminum coating in place of galvanization. This wire has the high breaking strength of steel wire and the conductivity of aluminum.12.5 gauge wire is usually the wire of choice for most permanent fences, while lighter gauges can be used for internal subdivision fences, both permanent and temporary.Insulators Insulators are a fundamental component of any electric fence. They are made from a non-conductive material, such as porcelain or plastic and form a barrier between the electrified wire and its support material to prevent current leakage to the ground. Plastic insulators are the most common type of insulator used on electric fences. They are cheap and easy to fit.Porcelain insulators have the best insulation properties, and if good quality, are the strongest. They are the most expensive. Plastic tube insulators are useful for taking a line wire around a post. Off-set insulators are used to attach a wire to a new fence or a non-electric fence. Cut-off switches are used to isolate parts of a fence without the need to turn off the energizer.Temporary fencingDifferent materials can be used to construct temporary electric fences: high-tensile wire, polywire, polytape, and electric netting (or net fence).High-TensileLight weight, high-tensile wire (17 or 19 gauge) is most suitable for semi-permanent fences that will not be moved constantly. Two or three wires is usually sufficient to control sheep and lambs.Polywire and PolytapeThe most common materials used for temporary fencing are polywire and polytape. Both are combinations of metal and plastic filaments. Polywire has the appearance of heavy cord or plastic baler twine. It comes in several colors or combinations of colors. Several grades are available depending upon the number of filaments and gauge of the conductor. Most polywire sold is either 6 or 9 strand.Polytape similarly comes in several options and should be purchased on the basis of the number of filaments and the quality of the plastic weave. Compare to polywire, tape has the advantage of greater visibility, which leads to quicker animal recognition and training to the fence. Polywire is less expensive and lasts longer. Poly products come in reels with various capacities and with different locking systems. If you plan to move a fence, reels are an absolute necessity for polywire and polytape.Step-in postsPlastic step-in posts are the most common line posts used with poly products. They are the easiest to use, especially if the fence will be moved frequently. The pre-molded loops provide plenty of flexibility for wire spacings. The metal re-bar posts are cheaper and last longer than plastic or fiberglass posts. They require insulators to hold the wires and can be difficult to get in the ground when the soil is hard.Fiberglass postsFiberglass posts are best suited to situations where the fence will not be moved frequently. Drive caps are usually used to hammer fiberglass posts into the ground. A spent shotgun shell also works well Wire clips or plastic insulators are used to hold the wire in place. All types of posts can be difficult to install during the winter.T postsMetal “t” posts are stronger and last longer than the other temporary posts, but they cost more and require more labor to install and remove.Electric NettingElectric netting combines traits of net-wire and electric fencing, providing a formidable mental and physical barrier in a portable format suitable for temporary or semi-permanent fencing of pastures. It is constructed of polywires and plastic twines. It is usually supplied in fixed lengths of 50 or 25 meters with support posts already installed.Netting is lightweight and easy to install. Compared to other temporary fences, electric netting provides greater protection from predators. However, with electric netting, there is some risk of animal entanglement, especially young lambs and animals with horns. Electric netting has many uses: making temporary fences, strip grazing, making laneways for moving livestock, protecting outdoor feed supplies, and using in the interim while permanent fences are being constructed.Table: Comparison of temporary fencing typesVirtual fencing, fencing without physical barriers is becoming increasingly popular.Learn more about virtual fencing =>

SOME KEY POINTSVirtual fence uses audio cues and electric pulses instead of physical barriers.Virtual fencing requires every adult animal to wear a GPS collar powered by a solar panel and rechargeable battery.Virtual fencing works best in areas with decent cell coverage and good solar exposure.Virtual fence is more about movement than containment.Virtual fence cannot prevent predators from entering grazing area.Virtual fence is ideal for difficult to fence areas and rotational grazing.Virtual fencing is a “fence-free” way to raise livestock. Instead of physical barriers, it uses audio cues and electric pulses to keep livestock within certain invisible boundaries. Virtual fencing works with the natural herding instinct of livestock. Each adult animal wears a GPS collar powered by a solar panel and rechargeable battery. Batteries usually need to be replaced every 3 to 8 weeks. The collars emit a sound when the animal approaches a virtual fence boundary. The sounds are designed to get the animal’s attention, and with time, (and training), cause it to turn away from the virtual fence boundary. If the animal continues to approach the boundary, an electric pulse is sent through the collar. If the animal does pass through the boundary, it can return to the grazing area without receiving any stimulus. For virtual fencing to work, there must be a cell signal. Virtual fencing works best in areas with decent cell coverage and good solar exposure (sunny open areas). Trees and slopes may affect connectivity. Some animals may not tolerate wearing a collar. The upfront cost of virtual fencing can be substantial, as the collars are not inexpensive and each adult animal must have one. There is also a monthly software cost for each collar in use. The software (app) allows the user to manage grazing from anywhere with a smart device. Since virtual fencing does not provide a physical or visual barrier, it cannot prevent predators from entering the grazing area. Proponents of virtual fencing argue that virtual fencing allows livestock to flee danger rather than being trapped against a physical fence. Using the same technology with guardian dogs is a possibility. Virtual fencing has limitations. It will not contain livestock all the time. It is more about movement than containment. Physical fences will still be needed in some areas. Virtual fencing is most applicable for areas that are difficult or too costly to fence. It is ideal for controlling or rotationally grazing livestock within existing perimeter fences. There are also advantages to being able to more easily monitor the behavior of your livestock from your smart phone. Research has shown that sheep will adapt to virtual fencing, but real-world experiences have been variable and economics will vary by farm.Virtual fencing for sheep using GPS ear tags is an emerging technology, still largely in development and trial phases. Ear tags could be more suitable for sheep due to high cost (of collars) and wool interference.